Multi-ply fabric, uses and manufacture thereof

ABSTRACT

In the proces of defining quilted fabric, non-stretchable, stretchable and interior layers of materials are wound on separate rollers. Then the layers are positively fed from the rollers to a bi-directional acting sewing assembly wherein the non-stretchable layer is provided with zero elongation and the stretchable layer is provided with 25 to 300 percent stretch. Next, the arranged layers are sewn in sets of sinusoidal-like seam patterns. Finally the stretched layer is permitted to relax to a natural state wherein a series of puffs are formed in rows across the layer normal to stretch direction of the stretchable layer. Result: columns of puffs of even numbered rows are aligned with each other but are laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows by a constant amount.

RELATED PRIOR PATENTS

[0001] In my prior patents, viz., U.S. Pat. No. 5,437,239 and U.S. Pat.No. 5,707,709, there are set forth fabrics, processes and uses involvingat least one stretchable layer that is stretched during formation andthen allowed to relax thereafter. As a result, a series of puffs areformed in rows across the layers normal to the axial stretch directionand in columns. The columns of puffs of even numbered rows are alignedwith each other with each other but are laterally offset with respect topuffs of odd numbered rows a constant amount thereby creating anaesthetically pleasing finished fabric. It has now been discovered thatif the stretchable layer is stretched in both the axial and laterialdirections—simultaneously—during formation, there is improved throughputwhile retaining an aesthetically pleasing finished fabric.

SCOPE OF THE INVENTION

[0002] This invention relates to an improved puffed, quilt-like smockedfabric consisting of a series of layers stitched together in automatedmanner. In one aspect of the invention, only two layers are used and thesecond interior layer is fed from a roller via a series of positiveacting driver rollers wherein the second layer is stretching in both theaxial and laterial directions simultaneously, as lateral direction (or ydirection)are thus separately controlled such that the elongationfactors Ax and By are additive to define a total elongation that is inthe range of 1.25 to 3.00 normalized to the relaxed state of the secondlayer. In another aspect of the invention, three layers are used inwhich first and second exterior layers overlay a soft interior layerwherein the second layer undergoes axial and lateral elongation. That isto say, the three layers are fed from a roller via a series of positiveacting driver rollers wherein the second layer is stretching in both theaxial and lateral directions simultaneously, as stitching occurs. Again,elongations in the axial direction (or x direction) and in the lateraldirection (or y direction)are separately controlled such that theelongation factors Ax and By are additive to define a total elongationin the range of 1.25 to 3.00 times the normal relaxed state of thesecond layer.

[0003] The stitching head undergoes cam controlled lateral movement as afunction of axial movement of the layers comprising the fabric of theinvention. Result: a saw-toothed stitch pattern is defined when viewedfrom the second layer but creating worm-like folds when viewed from theouter layer.

DEFINITIONS

[0004] These terms are used in this document and are defined as follows:

[0005] SMOCKING—A decorative stitching used in gathering cloth to makeit hang in folds.

[0006] QUILT—To stitch together as two pieces of cloth with a softinnerlayer in lines or patterns of square, longitudinal or lateralextending lines.

[0007] FABRIC—Cloth formed by fibers by the processes of weaving,knitting, pressing etc., wherein the fibers can be formed from naturallyoccurring products such as wool , hair, cotton, flax, hemp or can beformed of synthetic fibers.

[0008] FIBER—The fundamental unit used in the fabrication of textileyarns and fabrics. A unit used in the fabrication of textile yarns andfabrics. A unit of matter characterized by having a length at least 100times its diameter or width, and having definitely preferred orientationof its crystal unit cells with respect to a specific axis.

[0009] SYNTHETIC TEXTILES—A group of man-made fibers made by chemicalsynthesis or by chemical compounds through interaction.

[0010] STRETCH FABRICS—Cloths that have properties of elongation andrecovery from using Spandex and like yarns.

[0011] STRETCH YARNS—Specially treated, synthetic continuous filamentyarn. Examples: giving torque or false twist; by deforming them. Meritsare rapid and near completed recovery and improved holding power.

[0012] TRIAXIAL STRETCH FABRIC—Cloths that have the ability to stretchand recover along x, y and bias axes in equalized segments, i.e.,segment measurements per common length per common tensile force per x, yor bias directions are equalized.

[0013] BIAXIAL STRETCH FABRIC—Cloths that have the ability to stretchand recover along both the bias axis and one of the x or y axis isminimum.

[0014] YARN—A continuous string of textile fibers such as spun orcontinuous filament yarns. Spun yarn is short fibers while the latter isa grouping of endless parallel continuous filaments, its the basicmaterial made into fabric, thread, twine or cable. It can be woven,knotted, crocheted, tatted, netted or braided depending on the resultdesired and the character of the yarn. Continuous filament yarns areformed of rayon, nylon and other synthetic textiles.

[0015] YARN NUMBER—A conventional measure of fineness of yarn. In spunyarns, a lower number means the heavier the yarn while a higher numberrefers to finer-sized yarns. Man-made fibers are measured in deniers andis the reverse of the above, viz., lower number means finer-sized yarnsand vice versa.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0016] In my prior patents, viz., U.S. Pat. No. 5,437,239 and U.S. Pat.No. 5,707,709, there are set forth fabrics, processes and uses involvingat least one stretchable layer that is stretched during formation andthen allowed to relax thereafter. As a result, a series of puffs areformed in rows across the layers normal to the axial stretch directionand in columns. The columns of puffs of even numbered rows are alignedwith each other with each other but are laterally offset with respect topuffs of odd numbered rows a constant amount thereby creating anaesthetically pleasing finished fabric. It has now been discovered thatif the stretchable layer is stretched in both the axial and lateraldirections-simultaneously-during formation, there is improved throughputwhile retaining an aesthetically pleasing finished fabric.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0017] The present invention relates to an improved puffed, smocklikequilted fabric consisting of at least a natural resilient first layersuch as velvet, silk or denim overlaying a stretchable second layer.These layers are stitched together in an automated manner. The secondlayer is a synthetic long chain polymer comprising at least 85% of asegmented polyurethane called “Spandex”, and is fed from a roller viapositive pulling and shaping roller system that includes a lateralshaping quide and axial pulling driver roller acting through a series ofpole rollers. Result: the second layer undergoes stretching in both theaxial and lateral directions simultaneously, as stitching occurs.Elongations in the axial direction (or x direction) and in the laterialdirection (or y direction) are defined elongation factors Ax and Bywhich are additive to define a total elongation in the range of 1.25 to3.00 times the normal relaxed state of the second layer as the passesthrough a multiple stitching head. The stitching head undergoes camcontrolled lateral movement as a function of axial movement of thefabric to provide a puffed, smock-like quilted fabric. The fabric iswell adapted for use in making garments such coats as well a coveringsfor pillows and automotive seats.

[0018] The biaxial stretching capacity of the second layer is normallybetween 600 to 700% of its normal relaxed state. Hence axial and lateralstretching forces that are applied to the second layer in the range of1.25 to 3 times the relaxed state, is easily achieved. Note thatpreviously it was explained that the second layer is called by thegeneric name “Spandex”. Spandex itself is defined as a manufacturedfiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chin syntheticpolymer comprising at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane (Source:FTC). Examples are Lycra, Glospan and Numa, all trademarked fabrics, Inthe manufacturing process of Lycra, a trademark of DuPont Company, thesegmented polyurethane structure is achieved by reacting dilsocyanateswith long chain glycols which are usually polyester or polyethers of1000 to 2000 molecular weight range. The reaction product is then chainextended through the use of glycol, diamine or water. This gives thefinal polymer which is converted into fibers by dry spinning. In thefinished fiber the chains are randomly oriented and when stretched, thechains become oriented but exhibit spontaneous recovery to thedisordered state upon release of the force acting on the fiber.

[0019] During manufacture of the fabric of the invention, the secondlayer formed of “Spandex” is wound on a roller. The roller is controlledvia a positive pulling and shaping roller system that includes a lateralshaping quide and axial pulling driver roller acting in concert with aseries of pole rollers. Result: the second layer undergoes stretching inboth the axial and lateral directions simultaneously, as stitchingoccurs. The pulling and shaping roller system also provides uniformmovement of the first (upper) layer but only in an axial directionwithout positive braking pressure being applied. The roller containingthe first and second layers are pulled toward the multiple sewing headby a roller adjacent to a lateraling shaping guide and thence through aseries of pole rollers to a take-up roller.

[0020] The multiple sewing head is provided with a cam assembly theprovides of lateral movement of the plurality of threaded needles toprovide side-by-side sinusoidal line patterns. The plurality of threadedneedles are divided into a first set provided with common lateralmovement through a first cam and cam follower subassembly. Betweenneighboring needles of the first set, there is provided a needles of thesecond set. Such needles is provided with opposite movement through asecond cam and cam follower subassembly. As a result, its sinusoidalline pattern is complementary to line pattern of the first set. Afterthe quilted fabric passes downstream of the driver, the second layer ofSpandex is permitted to return to it relaxed state and the finishedfabric is wound about a final roller. The finished fabric as viewed fromthe first layer in its relaxed state comprises rows of elongated puffsextending above a base line and of uniform length normal to theprecursor initial stretch direction of the second layer defined duringsewing. The ends of adjacent puffs of any row are crimped by stitchingso that any one row of puffs resembles a string of attached wieners.Between successive rows, the crimped ends of the puffs of one row areoffset relative to he crimped ends of its next adjacent neighboring rowof puffs. Thus, the columns of puffs of every other row are aligned butsuccessive columns are offset. As a result, an aesthetically pleasingfabric is formed that has be useful in making coats (the rows of puffsrunning in vertical manner from the neck toward the belt and sleeves)and in padding walls of a casket as well as a covering for pillows andautomotive seats.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0021]FIG. 1 is a schematic view illustrating the process by whichinvention is performed including a series of rollers carrying thereonfirst and second layers in an axial direction toward a sewing head, thelaying being pulled in a positive sense by a positive roller adjacent toa lateral shaping guide thence through the sewing head and then onto atake-up roller;

[0022]FIG. 2 is an end view, partially cut-away, of the take-up rollerabout the second layer is wound having a braking system;

[0023]FIG. 3 is a detail side view, partially schematic, of the camassembly for providing bilateral, independent movement of the two setsof needles comprising the multiple needle head wherein sinusoidalstitching pattern is provided the layers passing adjacent to the needleshead;

[0024]FIG. 4 is a plan view of the puffed fabric wound of he take uproller of FIG. 1 in which the second layer is in relaxed state:

[0025]FIGS. 5 and 6 are vertical sections taken along line 5-5 and 6-6,respectively, of FIG. 4;

[0026]FIG. 7 is bottom view of the puffed fabric of FIG. 4;

[0027]FIG. 8 is a plan view of the puffed fabric of FIG. 4;

[0028]FIG. 9 is a bottom view of the puffed fabric of FIG. 4;

[0029]FIG. 10 is a front view of a buttoned coat constructed with thepuffed fabric of the invention in which rows of puffs run in a verticalmanner;

[0030]FIG. 11 is a front view of the coat of FIG. 10;

[0031]FIG. 12 is a top view of a covering that is used to cover a pillowor an automotive seat;

[0032]FIG. 13 is a front perspective view of the lateral guide of thepulling and shaping system of FIG. 1.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0033]FIG. 1 illustrates in schematic fashion, an assembly 9 by whichthe process of the present invention is performed. As shown, a series ofrollers 10, 11, 12, and are depicted upstream of a multiple sewing headassembly 14 and together with lateral guide 13 comprise a pulling andguiding assembly 8. The function of the pulling guiding assembly 8 isexplained in more detail below. Downstream from the sewing head assembly14 is a series of pole rollers 15 a, 15 b, and 15 c and take-up roller16. A non-stretch layer 20 such as velvet, silk and/or denim is woundabout the roller 10 and is fed upward toward the sewing head assembly 14via drive roller 11 i in contact with upper surface 20 a of the layer20. A stretchable layer 22 is wound about feed roller 12 and travelsupward into contact with the non-stretch layer 20 at the driver roller11. A lower surface 22 a of the stretchable layer 22 is placed incontact with lateral guide 13 and is forced into lateral stretching asexplained below. Suffice to say, the layers 20, 22 pass between thedrive roller 11 and lateral stretching guide 13 so that they are placedin planar face-to-face relationship with the non-stretch layer above thestretchable layer 22 but the stretchable layer 22 undergoes both axialand lateral stretching. That is to say, as the layers 20, 22 passbetween the positive roller 11 and the lateral guide 13 under positiveaxial pressure (because of positive axial pressure applied by the roller11), the stretchable layer 22 passes over arcuate surface 13 a of thelateral guide 13 and is undergoes lateral stretching.

[0034]FIG. 13 shows how lateral stretching occurs.

[0035] As shown, the lateral guide 13 includes a series of ridges 13 bacross the surface 13 a which are shaped so that the right-hand set 5spirals to the right as viewed starting from edge 13 d, and theleft-hand set 6 spirals to the left. Result: assuming that centerlinesof the layer 22 coincides with centerline 13 e of the guide 13, lateralstretching occurs as a function of the angle A of the ridges 13 b in themanner of arrows 4. Attachment of the lateral guide 13 is via threads ofbolts 13 c attached at upper edge 13 e.

[0036] Returning to FIG. 1, the formed layers 20, 22 pass between thesewing head assembly 14 under the positive axial and lateral pressureprovided by roller 11 and lateral guide 13. The rollers 10 and 12 arethus unwound under the positive forces applied thereto by the latter atthe downstream side of the sewing head assembly 14. The roller 12 isprovided with conventional tension controls for holding proper tensionon the layer 22. The same tension is also applied to positive polerollers 15 a, 15 b and 15 c on the upstream stream side of the sewinghead assembly 14. Once in rotation, the rollers 10, 11 and 12 tend torotate with constant velocities. In this regard, the rollers 10 and 12include braking assembly 30, as shown in FIG. 2. The purpose of thebraking assembly 30: to cause biaxial stretching of the lower layer 22wound about roller 12 (see FIG. 1) in an amount 25 to 300% of therelaxed state of the layer 22, as previously mentioned, as well as tocause 0% elongation of the top layer 20. After the lower layer 22 ispermitted to relax the finished fabric 17 of the invention is woundabout take-up roller 16.

[0037]FIG. 2 shows the braking assembly 30 in more detail. As shown,FIG. 2 relates to roller 12 but the description which follows is alsogermane to similar braking assemblies associated with the roller 10. Asshown, end 31 of the roller 12 rotates within a stationary drum 32attached to upright standard 33. The drum 32 has an end wall 34 and sidewall 35 that extend adjacent to the end 31 of the roller 12. The endwall 34 includes a hub 36 that attaches to the upright standard 33. Notethat the circumferencial side wall 34 extends over a portion of thecircuferential surface 37 of the roller 12. An arcuate brake pad 38 isplaced in contact with outer surface 37 of the roller 12 and is capableof radial movement in the direction of arrow 39 via bolts 40 havinginterior ends that butt against the pad 38. As shown, the bolts 40attach to and through threaded openings (not shown) in the side wall 35of the drum 32. Note that the tension applied by the separate brakeassemblies 30 to the rollers 10 and 12 of FIG. 1 is separatelyadjustable. The purpose of the adjustments: to cause biaxial stretchingof the lower layer 22 in an amount 25 to 300% of the relaxed state ofthe layer 22, as previously mentioned as well as to cause 0% elongationof the top layer 20. Since the amount of tension for the rollers 10, 12is constant, the maximum braking or friction force for rollers 10, 12 isa function of the elongation strength of the layers 20, 22. However,such tension force is below the ultimate strength of the layer 20 but issufficient to provide between 25 to 300% elongation of the layer 22.

[0038] Returning to FIG. 1, while the sewing head assembly 14 is typicalfor the purpose of stitching the layers 20-22 together usingside-by-side needle bars 49 a, 49 b having separate side walls 46 intowhich needles 47 are attached. The needle bars 49 a, 49 b are alsocontrolled to undergo separate, lateral movement, however. The directionof such lateral movement is depicted by arrow 50 in FIG. 3. In addition,the needles 47 of the needle bars 49 a, 49 b also undergo typicalvertical movement in the direction of arrow 51. As a result, threadreleasably attached to the needles 47 is caused to enter the layers 20,22 to provide typical stitching patterns 53, 54 of FIGS. 8 and 9 asviewed from the top layer 20 and bottom layer 22, respectively.

[0039] Lateral movement of the needle bars 49 a, 49 b is depicted indetail in FIG. 3.

[0040] As shown, the needle bar 49 a has an end 55 forming a camfollower surface in contact with surface 57 of cam subassembly 58. Theend 55 is provided positive surface tension via spring 60 so that theinteraction of the shape of the surface 57 of the rotating cam 58 a ofthe cam subassembly 58 provides for left-hand stitchings 53 a, 54 a ofthe patterns 53, 54 respectively shown in FIGS. 8 and 9. Returning toFIG. 3, note that needle bar 49 a is open along its bottom edge 59. As aconsequence the needles 47 associated with the needle bar 49 a form afirst set, while the needles 47 associated with the needle bar 49 bforms a second set. Between neighboring needles 47 of the first set,there is a needle 47 of the second set controlled by needle bar 49 b.

[0041] That is to say, the needle bar 49 b has an end 64 forming a camfollower surface in contact with surface 67 of cam 68 a of camsubassembly 68. The end 64 is provided positive surface tension viaspring 69 so that the interaction of the shape of the surface 67 of therotating cam 68 a of the cam subassembly 68 provides for the right-handstitchings 53 b, 54 b of the patterns 53, 54, respectively shown inFIGS. 8 and 9. Note in FIGS. 8 and 9 that uniform tension has beenapplied to the finshed fabric 17 in the direction of arrow 60 to providebiaxial stretch as the needle bars 49 a, 49 b move laterally to thedirection of application of the tensil force (T), see FIG. 1. Inaddition, the seam patterns 53, 54 are seen each to be sinusoidal-likein plan view, oscillating about axes of formation 62 wherein peaks 53 b,54 b and troughs 53 c, 54 c of side-by-side seams laterally coincide ina direction normal to arrow 60.

[0042] As a result of the relative stetching of the layer 22 as thecomplementary sinudoidal stitch patterns 53, 54 of FIGS. 8 and 9 arelaid down, there is provided a series of improved puffs 70 of thesurface of layer 20 and in layer 22 as shown in FIGS. 4 and 7,respectively. Note that in FIG. 4, the puffs 70 are shaped as shown assoon as the the pre-tensioning force in the direction of arrows 60 inFIGS. 8 and 9 are released and the layer 22 of FIG. 7 is permitted torelax as the finished fabric 17 of FIG. 1 is wound about take-up roller16. Note that the puffs 73 appear on the surface of the layer 20 andlayer 22 as shown in FIGS. 4 and 7, respectively.

[0043]FIGS. 5 and 6 are sections that illustrate the shape of the puffs70 in more detail as viewed along columnar lines 5-5 and 6-6 of FIGS. 5and 6, respectively.

[0044] Note in FIG. 5 that the section is taken through rows R1, R2 . .. Rx of the puffs 70 of FIG. 4 such that the section line of the oddrows R1, R3, R5 . . . passes through arcuate ends 71 of the puffs 70 ofsuch odd rows. Thus the puffs 70 of the odd numbered rows R1, R3 . . .in FIG. 4 are columnarly aligned. Also the puffs of the even numberedrows R2, R4 . . . are columarly aligned but offset from puffs 70 of theodd numbered rows R1, R3 . . . But the section line is seen to alsobisect the puffs 70 of the even rows R2, R4 . . . at maximum height h ofeach puff 70. As a result, the puffs 70 of the even rows R2, R4 . . .define cavities 72 between top and bottom layers 20, 22.

[0045] While the layers 20 22 forming the puffs 70 of the odd rows R1,R3 . . . follow the same contour so that the cavities 73 are of minimumvolume.

[0046] Note in FIG. 6 that the section is taken through rows R1, R2 . .. Rx of the puffs 70 at a columnar location in which the height h of thepuffs 70 is seen to be essentially constant from row-to-row. Moreover,the cavities 72, 73 of the rows R1, R2, R3 . . . are of the same shapeand volume. The cavities 72, 73 are formed between top and bottom layers20, 22.

[0047] But referring again to FIG. 4, the puffs 70 of odd numbered rowsR1, R3, R5 . . . are seen to be columnarly aligned. Also the puffs 70 ofthe even numbered rows R2, R4, R6 . . . are likewise columnarly alignedbut are offset from puffs 70 of the odd numbered rows R1, R3 . . . by aconstant amount, say equal to L/2 where L is the length of each puff 70.

[0048]FIGS. 10 and 11 illustrate a garment 80 in the form of a jacketcomprising an outer shell 81 formed of the finished fabric 17 associatedwith take-up roller 16, see FIG. 1. The outer shell 81 has a pair offront panels 82, 83 attached to a waistband 79 and a rear panel 85. Therear panel 85 is attached to the front panels via shoulder seams 84.Sleeves 86 are also a component of the outer shell 81 and are attachedvia an arcuate set of seams 87 to the front and rear panels 82, 83 and85. An attached collar 86, front button bands 87, 88 and inner liner 89,complete the garment 80. The collar 86 attaches to the upper edges ofthe front and rear panels 82, 83 and 85. The button bands 87, 88 attachvertically between the collar 86 and the waistband 79 and laterally viaside edges 90 of front panels 82, 83. Note that the puffs 70 of theouter shell 81 has rows R1, R2, R3 . . . that run generally in avertical pattern between the waistband 79 and the collar 86. As aresult, the vertical line of the puffs 70 is generally slimming to theuser and pleasing to the eye of the on-looker.

[0049]FIG. 12 is a top view of a cover 92 for use in association with apillow or with an automotive seat. If the cover 92 is used with apillow, the cover 92 would include both front and rear panel 93, 94 butfor use in covering an automotive seat, the cover 92 would only includea single panel 93 or 94 but not both. Each such panel 93 or 94 includestop and bottom edges 96, 97 and a pair of side edges 98. If used inassociation with pillow, the panels 93, 49 are attached via top andbottom seams 99 and side seams 100. The resulting puffs 70 of the cover92 run generally parallel to the top and bottom edges 96, 97 so as to bepleasing to the eye of the on-looker.

[0050] While preferred embodiments have been shown and described in theforegoing, it will be understood that the invention is capable ofnumerous modifications, rearrangements and substitutions withoutdeparting from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appendedclaims. For example, the invention is capable of being carried out usinga quilting machine manufactured by Edgewater Machine Company, 13-20131st St., College Park, N.Y. wherein such machine is modified toprovide correct braking of the layers of material prior to sewing and toprovide correct movement of the sewing head relative to such layers assewing occurs.

What is claimed is:
 1. A process for forming a puffed, smock-like quilted fabric comprising an exterior layer of non-stretchable material and bi-axial stretchable material overlaying a soft interior layer stitched together in automated manner, comprising the steps of: (a) winding non-stretchable and stretchable layers on separate rollers, (b) after placing the rollers in a quilting arrangement, positively feeding the layers from the rollers to sewing head arrangement to provide essentially zero elongation for the non-stretchable layer and to provide both axial and lateral elongation for the bi-xial stretchable layer simultaneously such that elongation factors Ax and Ay are additive to define a total elongation in the range of 1.25 to 3.00 times the relaxed state of the stretchable layer, (c) sewing the arranged layers in sets of sinusoidal-like seam patterns across the layers wherein each of said sinusoidal like seam patterns has an axis of formation essentially parallel to said axial stretch direction of the bi-axial stretchable layer, (d) relaxing the stretchable layer to relax to a natural state wherein a series of puffs are formed in rows across the layers normal to said axial stretch direction the stretchable layer, and columns of puffs of even numbered rows are aligned with each other but are laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows a constant amount thereby creating an aesthetically pleasing finished fabric.
 2. The process of claim 1 in which side-by-side seam patterns are complementary, wherein said seam patterns are each laterally aligned in a direction normal to the stretch direction of the stretchable layer relative to said each axis of formation of the seam patterns.
 3. The process of claim 1 in which said non-stretchable layer has an ultimate tensile strength of known value and wherein tensioning stretch force applied to the non-stretchable and stretchable layers is less than said ultimate tensile strength for the non-stretchable layer.
 4. A process for forming a puffed, smock-like quilted finished fabric comprising an exterior layer of non-stretchable material and an interior layer of bi-axial stretchable interior material, stitched together in automated manner, comprising the steps of: (a) winding non-stretchable and stretchable layers on separate rollers. (b) after placing the rollers in a quilting arrangement, positively feeding the layers from the rollers to sewing head arrangement to provide essentially zero elongation for the non-stretchable layer and to provide both axial and lateral elongation for the biaxial stretchable layer simultaneously such that elongation in the axial and lateral direction are additive to define a total elongation in the range of 100 to 250 per cent (c) sewing the arranged layers in sets of sinusoidal-like seam patterns across the layers wherein each of said seam patterns has an axis of formation essentially parallel to said axial stretch direction of the bi-axial stretchable layer, (d) allowing the stretchable layer to relax to a natural state wherein a series of puffs are formed in rows across the layers normal to said axial stretch direction of the stretchable layer thereby creating an aesthetically pleasing finished fabric.
 5. The process of claim 4 in which puffs of even numbered row are columnarly aligned with each other but being laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows by a constant amount thereby creating an aesthetically pleasing finished fabric.
 6. The process of claim 5 in which each of said series of puffs is defined by a length L parallel to said axial stretch direction of the stretchable layer and wherein said constant offset amount is equal to L/2.
 7. A puffed, smock-like quilted finished fabric comprising an exterior layer of non-stretchable material and an interior layer of bi-axial stretchable material stitched together in automated manner having a series of puffs and columns of even number in a constant amount, formed by the steps of: (a) winding non-stretchable and stretchable layers on separate rollers. (b) positively feeding the layers from the rollers to sewing head arrangement to provide essentially zero elongation for the non-stretchable layer and to provide both axial and lateral elongation for the bi-axial stretchable layer simultaneously such that elongation in the axial and lateral direction are additive to define a total elongation in the range of 25 to 300 per cent of the stretchable layer, (c) sewing the arranged layers in sets of sinusoidal-like seam patterns across the layers wherein each of said sinusoidal-like seam patterns have an axis of formation essentially parallel to said axial stretch direction of the bi-axial stretchable layer, (d) allowing the stretchable layer to relax to a natural state wherein a series of puffs are formed in rows across the layers normal to said axial stretch direction the stretchable layer, and columns of puffs of even numbered rows are aligned with each other but are laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows a constant amount thereby creating an aesthetically pleasing finished fabric.
 8. The fabric of claim 7 in which each of said series of puffs is defined by a length L parallel to said axial stretch direction of the stretchable layer and wherein said constant offset amount is equal to L/2.
 9. The fabric of claim 7 in which side-by-side seam patterns are complementary wherein maximum peaks and troughs of each are laterally aligned in a direction normal to said axial stretch direction of the stretchable layer relative to said each axis of formation of the seam patterns.
 10. The fabric of claim 7 in which said non-stretchable and interior layers have separate ultimate tensile strengths and wherein tensioning stretch force app lied to the non-stretchable and stretchable layers is less than said ultimate tensile strength for the non-stretchable layer.
 11. The fabric of claim 7 formed into a jacket with attached collar comprising an outer shell having a pair of front panels attached to a waistband, a rear panel attached to said front panels via a pair of shoulder seams, and sleeves attached via arcuato seams to said front and rear panels, said puffs associated with said front and rear panels and said sleeves defining said rows wherein said rows run generally vertically between said waistband and said collar wherein the vertical pattern of said puffs are generally slimming for the user and pleasing to the eye of the on-looker.
 12. The fabric of claim 7 formed into a cover for use in forming a pillow.
 13. The fabric of claim 7 formed into a cover for use in covering an automotive seat. 